Best Burritos In the World: The Test of all tests

Call it "trial by taqueria."

I was six weeks into my new job as a staff writer for The Chronicle's Food section when my editor, with a glint in his eyes, proposed an assignment: Go out and, as an extension of this year's Bargain Bites (look for it this Sunday in the Chronicle Magazine), explore the Bay Area's taqueria scene. Visit as many as you can, he urged.