In Moscow, Tourists beware the uniform

by Barry Artiste | January 20, 2008 at 10:37 am
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Opinion
Barry Artiste, Now Public Contributor

A US Journalists perspective on his visit to Moscow, certainly makes me wonder if there is another Moscow out there somewhere, perhaps in Idaho.  Certain biases on  Moscow and the Russian people  fill many US published  Tourist  Books, rampant crime, gunfire in the streets,  long lines for food, bring your own water and toilet paper and other non sensical ramblings making North Americans think that perhaps the outdated notion that Moscow and Russians today are the same Russians during Communist times. Nothing could be further from the truth.  Moscovites by an large, though poor salary wise, make do and are happy, preferring not to dwell on their situation and will give you the shirt off their backs when they show you hospitality, giving you the largest portion of food or drink.  A heartwarming tradition.

For sake of argument I will concentrate on Moscow and the People, and dispute what this reporters observations are based on his story, letting Now Public readers know this reporters observations were certainly an exception to the rule, and itemise subject by subject my version based on his version. 

My observations having lived and worked for a time in Moscow is certainly different than his biased observations.  First off, I have been to Veterans parades, and granted drinking in public is allowed in some circumstances such as parks, not streets (though I have seen it on occasion) Public drunkeness is forbidden with Militias and Police ever present will curtail your warpoling activities pretty quickly regardless if you are drunk in uniform, there is a  modicum of pride in their armed forces, though a few bad apples will  spoil it for others.

In  approaching Police or Militia  as a tourist,  I had many times, only to be greeted in friendly terms, including photo ops of Guards with machine guns (I will post later when I scan them) at the ready within Red Square, who were all too willing to have their photos taken, of which upon photo developing duplicates in the  Arbut district, I gratefully gave them copies.  As for the many red stars, hammers and sickles, well for the most part when I was there (a few years ago) most were removed except the odd iron gates and fences outside some building, most likley due to cost.  There are none in Red Square or in the Kremlin.

On Cleanliness, Moscow is one of the cleanest cities I have ever been in, smog is a problem, but so is it in most major cities. 

The only long lines I ever encountered during my time in Moscow, was at Arbuts MacDonalds, and the Alfa banks, staffed with what only can be described as (Married with Children) Peg Bundy style tellers disinterested in helping anyone until their nails dried, gossiping amongst themselves and what seemed to be them taking 15 minute coffee breaks every hour, this much to the outrage of Muscovites and tourists alike.

For ease of travel, I have piloted a rather large russian yacht down the Moscow River which runs beside Saint Basils Cathedral and Russian Parliament at Red Square, taken gypsy cabs mostly, because legit cabs break down frequently, one time I had to push a cab  along  on my way to the Puskin museum for a 1/4 kilometer and paid for the privilege as I felt sorry for the cabbie.

Gorky Park was an eye opener as I had read spy books, seen spy movies where  murder and intrigue were common in the secret agent world.   Imagine my surprise to  see a PNE style amusement park and  not the dark and isolated park scenes portrayed in spy movies.

On the subject of the underground metro,  it was stunning, though  post world war I  architecture, it was nicer than  most  art-sculpture museums I have attended in Canada or elsewhere.  Some metro art pieces were stunning, yet the metro was relatively clean, though the train cars left a lot to be desired as they looked right out of the 1960s, but were functional.

As for personal safety, though crime is a serious problem as it is in any metropolitian city worldwide, I have walked the streets alone day and late at night and at no time did I fear for my safety whatsoever. I saw no visual crime or gunfire on the streets. The old adage of "Where is a Cop when you need one", certainly does not apply here, as they are virtually everywhere and within your line of sight the whole time.  Of course you do not flout your status and dress as someone with money regardless if you are a Muscovite or tourist, that is just asking for it, regardless if you are in Moscow or New York. Do Police and Militia take Bribes, sadly most certainly, due to their  100 dollar a month salary, though I have never given a bribe and  had been stopped a few times for a document check, once they saw my Canadian Passport, a handshake followed, some dialogue in broken english, about Canada, though I speak Russian (Badly), but good enough to get into venues and pay Moscovite prices, as there  is a price  (Higher)  for  Tourists and a price for  Moscovites, which is a mere couple of rubles, say, for instance to attend the Bolshoi Ballet.

True some Police, Militia and Citizens will stare suspiciously at you, but most likely if you stand out, as I am certain this reporter must have. If you as a tourist stare at someone in disgust or amusement at someone either a babuska selling flowers, a gypsy performer, beggar or someone obviously drunk on the street with your notebook and camera in hand, you will certainly be treated differently, you need to show empathy and smile. Maybe it is Canadian versus American thing.

Another reason this reporter may have aroused suspicion could be their dress e.g: Bermuda shorts, baseball cap,  sandals,  Loud shirts that yell to the world that you are different.   The mode of dress among Russian men is casual mostly versus Russian women who dress like Supermodels even if they are only going out to get the newspaper.

I think the most unfortunate part of Moscow Culture is the War on Terror, recent bombings and terrorist acts against Muscovites certainly have them on edge. One thing that is certain is that anyone not visibly White in appearance and who has dark mediteranean features will certainly get you stopped more often by Police, Militia or seen by Moscovites with suspicion more so than anyone  who otherwise looks Nordic in appearance.  Perhaps that may explain the American reporters indifference, his skin colour, though not certain as I have not seen a photo of him.

Traffic and Drivers in Moscow, my only comment is, Pedestrians beware. Walking across the streets of a busy Moscow intersection, is akin to walking across the lanes of a Nascar Speedway in full swing. 

My Final Thought

Upon leaving Moscow for Canada, my experiences were nothing but positive, I have partied with Moscovites, Laughed and dined with Moscovites, recieved parting gifts from them, and truly miss Moscow and the historical and culture that is Russian. Granted Moscow has social problems much like any other city in the world, it is just some Western Countries love to dwell on the negative of Russia, instead of the positive. But then this story is about the Tourists and not of the citizenry which is whole different story.

Perhaps my time was made easier in Russia due to my motto that when in another country either as a tourist or recent immigrant you should do as the ancient romans declared to all, that when in Rome.... do as the Romans, assimilate, embrace and be one with Russians, something Canadians and Americans and Immigrants can take a page from. 

Once I scan some of my photos of Moscow I will post them on here.

Sorry for the long story here, but felt this was important to me to write about.

In Moscow, beware the uniform

Amid the fading grandeur of the city's metro system, a visitor encounters curious sights and partying paratroopers.

By DAVID ABEL, Boston Globe

Shortly after dawn one day on my first trip to Russia, a land where guidebooks advise foreigners to avoid just about anyone in uniform, I elbowed my way out of a cramped subway car in Moscow onto a marble platform full of indecipherable Cyrillic signs.

 

Lost, sleepy, and trying to find my way beneath fluorescent-lighted chandeliers and timeworn frescoes of muscle-bound workers, I pushed through the throng of rush-hour commuters and noticed that all the hammers and sickles, red stars and other relics of communism weren't the only holdovers from the Soviet era.

Staring at me somewhat ominously was a large man wearing a bright blue beret, combat boots, and a blue-striped tank top. He looked like a guy experienced in the art of killing. I tried to avoid his gaze as he hoisted a nearly finished beer and shouted in my direction, "Slava, VDV! Slava, VDV!" gibberish that anyway sounded menacing.

After nearly a week in Russia, however, it no longer seemed odd to find someone drinking in public, haranguing passersby with drunken songs and incomprehensible epithets. Already I was accustomed to curious sights throughout the fading grandeur of Moscow's metro system, which some 9 million people use every day. For instance, I had seen a man, in full view of just about everyone in the subway car, plant his hand down a woman's shirt while another lost his lunch as the train lurched to a halt.

What I didn't know that early morning was that I would spend the day trying to steer clear of many of the drunken man's comrades, thousands of beret-wearing veterans who wrought a measure of chaos at nearly every corner of the capital, from metro stations and markets to parks and Red Square.

I would learn later that this disjointed legion of large men -- many of whom were trained to kill -- were celebrating a peculiar holiday here called Paratroopers Day, which seemed like a mix of St. Patrick's Day and Veterans Day, with more alcohol and more belligerence. The holiday marks the birth 77 years ago of the Soviet Union's airborne assault troops called the Vozdushno-Desantnye Vojska, or VDV, the proud, highly trained force that helped lay waste to much of Chechnya after years of Cold War preparation to fight U.S. troops in Europe.

Having managed to pass by the paratrooper without incident, I found my way out of the station on one of its many escalators, which travel about twice the speed of their U.S. counterparts and rise from what seems like a mile below ground. I emerged into a cold drizzle next to the massive, neo-Gothic Foreign Ministry Building, which could pass for the Legion of Doom, and trudged through the sodden streets, passing everything from a McDonald's to vendors hawking trinkets bearing likenesses of Lenin and Marx.

Watermelons and gewgaws

As morning blurred into afternoon, I wandered the city, from the ornate metro stations to a gritty market where Asian-featured men from the former Soviet republics in the Caucasus sold imitation Nike sneakers, oversized watermelons, and all kinds of gewgaws. I rubbed elbows with grimacing babushkas and beautiful young women who flaunted their long hair, short skirts and stiletto heels, a perilous choice on cobblestoned streets. I ate pelmeni (Russian dumplings), borscht, stuffed cabbage and black bread, though sushi, pizza and lots of gourmet imports were widely available.

I visited the old Lubyanka prison, where Stalin jailed thousands of dissidents, potential counterrevolutionaries, and innocent victims in the 1930s. The imperious building is now headquarters of the Federal Security Service, successor to the KGB. When a guard gestured for me to stop snapping pictures of the weathered, gray stones and many surveillance cameras, I crossed the street and found a tiny park, home to the relatively invisible Memorial to the Victims of Totalitarianism, a patch of garden with little more than a commemorative rock from a labor camp where the Soviets worked untold thousands, or millions, to death.
A block away, I stumbled upon Moscow's premier science museum, which highlights the country's contributions to everything from chemistry to rocketry. There were some of the world's first spacesuits, an exhibit about how Dmitri Mendeleev developed the periodic table and a model of the Soviet Union's first atomic bomb.

Afterward, as I passed the scaffold-covered Bolshoi Theatre and neared the red brick gates of the Kremlin, I began to realize something was different about this day from my previous days in Russia. Nearly everywhere I turned, I saw the men in the blue berets and striped shirts, or telnyashka, a signature part of the uniform of Russia's navy and special forces.

I prodded a friend, an expatriate living in Russia, to ask a police officer what was happening. She was reluctant, because of the advice about not approaching those wearing uniforms. He looked coldly at her, or through her, refusing to say anything.

Festive Gorky Park

With the area crowded with similarly unfriendly men and the sun finally peeking through the dark clouds, I thought it would be a good time to visit Gorky Park, which my guidebook described as "one of Moscow's most festive places to escape the hubbub of the city."

There was definitely a party.

On the metro ride to the park, scores of disheveled, red-eyed men in berets held each other up, sang, and hugged comrades, even those who appeared to be strangers.

Outside the station, I crossed a bridge over the Moscow River and watched as other paratroopers ran into traffic waving flags, butted chests with comrades, and hurled vodka bottles and beer cans everywhere.

It turned out the park was the epicenter of the paratroopers' drunken festivities.

When I passed through the columned entrance of the park, which has old carousels, roller coasters, and remnants of the Soviet Union's failed effort to copy the U.S. space shuttle, the paratroopers were everywhere.

They were strumming guitars, and videotaping each other dancing and wrestling. Some disrobed to their tattoos and splashed through the park's fountains. Others ended up passed out on the muddy grass.

On this day, to make sure I didn't end up like the men on the grass, I decided to explore a different part of town.

recommend This comment thread is now closed
Jordan Yerman
Jordan Yerman
flagged this story as Good Stuff

at 10:46 on January 20th, 2008

Some tips to anyone travelling to anywhere foreign (to them): Cover your guidebook in brown paper, or glue on a different cover. Criminal elements are drawn to tourists no matter where you go: you think you're being sublte when you pull out that Lonely Planet guide, but you're not. It's better to be perceived as an expat than a tourist. Also, avoid (as mentioned above) bright colors in favor of neutrals. I personally don't wear shorts when I travel, even in hot countries. Learn basics like directions, please/thanks in the local languages. Also, it totally sucks, but traveling alone is more dangerous for women, pretty much anywhere.

Jennings David L
Jennings David L
flagged this story as Good Stuff

at 11:05 on January 20th, 2008

Barry,  I like your interpretation of the Russian people.   My experiences in Moscow, like yours, is one of good people who are pretty much like anyone else in a big city.  Your viewpoint helps counter the quoted reporter's writing about a bad day he encountered, not typical at all. The history, the people, and the architecture, were all a wonderful experience for me and my family.  The group that made an impression on me arrived at Red Square, from all directions, on a Saturday morning to get married.  Brides and grooms all dressed up, complete with limos and escorts, were streaming into the square for a mass wedding.  It was beautiful.

0
Barry Artiste

Thanks for the FLag Jordan and the valuable comments tourists should take to heart.  Moscow women and crude sexual harrassment from what I witnessed was rare, police will soon put a stop to it if the women won't. Yes admiring glances and the occassional catcalls, but I saw many tourists displaying these type of advances towards Russian women, in their mistaken belief that, though Russian women may be in need of money and the finer things in life, they are very proud women and absolutely gorgeous, and will strongly rebuff most advances by the well to do gentry who mistakenly believe Moscow Women will desperately flock to them because tourists spout they are from a Rich Western Country.  Most Moscovite women I encountered in my work and everyday life would bombard me with incessant questions about the early 1980's Television show Dallas, which most Moscow Women strangley resently get on TV and most believe this is the way all Americans are dressed, live and behave with opulent mansions.  Now whose culture is being wrongly stereotyped? 
I informed them Americans as well as Canadians pretty much live, love, work and play just like Russians, everything available in western countries is not lacking in Moscow stores.  We are pretty much equal, except it is harder than hens teeth to find, much less buy an air conditioner for my flat in downtown Moscow during the summer as the temperature reaches the high 30's and with the humidty reaches low 40's.  And would it Kill Russians to put their soft drinks in bloody coolers?  I like my soft drinks cold and my women Hot!

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Barry Artiste

Thanks for the Flag Dave, true more than one occasion I saw American built stretch limos outside Saint Basils parking lot with throngs of wedding parties in suits and Tuxedoes taking tons of photos of each other. It was quite the sight, as I am sure of the bulk of the wedding cost to the families were the motorcades of renting  the limos.

cynthia yoo
cynthia yoo
flagged this story as Good Stuff

at 11:40 on January 20th, 2008

Thanks for sharing your experiences with us.

0
Barry Artiste

Your'e welcome Cynthia, it certainly sticks in my craw when some love to give a warped perspective on any culture based on a few days jaunt. Especially a Journalist who should know better, if the newspaper budget didn't allow for him to be sufficiently immersed in Russian society, they should not have covered the story.

That would be like dumping a Russian reporter on the Dallas Set for a few days or Beverly Hills or Palm Springs, of course the Russian reviews would be spectacular, except for those readers who have actually spent some time in the states and know it is all smoke and mirrors. 

John Ulrich
John Ulrich
flagged this story as Good Stuff

at 20:24 on January 20th, 2008

Barry Artiste, I like this story. It's good stuff.

Rick Taberzika
Rick Taberzika
flagged this story as Good Stuff

at 23:48 on January 20th, 2008

Barry Artiste, I like this story. It's good stuff.

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Khalid Hanna

Hi Barry,

I appreciate your views and positive picture about your Moscow visit and Moscvites (if the spelling is good). I am preparing to visit russia and all I have read up to now is either negative or just along the lines 'you're on your own when in russia'. Actually, my fellow worker is from Moscow and I think he is worried about my safety and is giving the heads up. I live in Toronto, and recently I have become more concerned about my family's safety here in Toronto than taking all precautions for traveling abroad. I guess you know the facts. Nevertheless, it is wise to be twice as cautious when in a foreign land, and I like your appraoch because it actually substitutes alot of apprehension with optimism and peace of mind. 

God bless

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