Gianyar - The Mother of Ubud

Gianyar Regency is located at central Bali , with Ubud as one of the district in Gianyar regency became a famoust tourist destination in the world. Until the fourteen century Bali was ruled Bali by the Warmadewa dynasty. The Buddhist ruling kingdoms is centralized in Bedulu, five kilometres west of Gianyar town. After Javanese conquered Bali the capital move to Samprangan, north of the present Gianyar town before it moved again to Gelgel and Klungkung in the east. During the Dutch conquering in early nineteen hundreds, Gianyar was rebuilt.

PLACES OF INTEREST

Batubulan
Are famous with its spectacular Barong and Keris dance. At least there are four stages setup for regular Barong and keris dances within this stone carving village. There are hundreds or maybe even thousands of stone carving are offered in the workshops along the village to the local or foreign consumers. The price of the stone carving maybe not the biggest consideration for foreign consumers but the shipment cost will.

Celuk
The center of silver and gold making. A minutes stop to see how the process of silver by talent Balinese man and woman create a beautiful and unique style of this part. Celuk just located next from Singapdu, Batubulan.

Goa Gajah
Literally means ‘Elephant Cave”. Although named by ‘elephant’ it doesn’t mean there is any real elephant live or ever live here. The name Goa Gajah derived from ‘Lwa Gajah’ which is mentioned in the manuscripts found in this site. This temple complex was built for the first time around 11 century based on epigraph found in this site.

A seven-metre deep cave with a shape of T-letter is the major attraction of this Bedulu village’s local temple. The cave it self is carved in a solid stone hill of the river valley. The main figure of the carving at the cave entrance is ‘boma’, a barong face, accompanied with big clapping fingers on its side. Leaf, flower, and some horror figures can be noticed if you give more attention look to the rest of the carving. Some holes that are considered to be used as meditation or sleeping quarters can be found in the wall of the cave. Nowdays, those holes are used to placed offerings whenever there is ceremonies taking place.

On the left end side of the cave is Ganesha statue, believe it as ‘the God of knowledge’. Meanwhile on the right end side can be found three ‘linggas’, that each of them dedicated to the three common God manifestations in Bali, Brahma, Wisnu, and Siwa. There are other three stone carvings in the centre wall, one of them figuring head and face.

Three other statues of Ganesha, demons and Men Brayut, a legendary lady with her beloved children, are placed on a high building located on the left side of cave entrance. It is considered that these statues are 1000 years old. In the middle of the complex, in front of the cave, there is bathing place that is not any longer used by the local people. The angle figures within the bathing complex are about similar to common figures found in India.

On the south part of the complex, there are along flight of step leads down the lower part of the valley. After crossing a bridge above a small creek and follow another flight of steps up to eastern side of the valley, a headless sitting Buddha

Gunung Kawi Tampaksiring
An archaeological complex lies on gorge of Pakerisan River. To reach the complex visitors must walk about 600 metres from the parking area to the ticket counter than walked down on 315 stone steps. Before take a cross on the bridge at the bottom of the valley make a turn to the left to see the first stone monument. Another group of stone monument is located on the left side of the main temple across of the river.

The monuments are hewn in relief on a solid rock hill commonly call candi. There are shaped like burial towers found all over Central and East Java. However, there are many theories telling identity of the royal personages honoured here. One very credible theory suggests the five ‘candi’ in the main group were built for King Udayana, his Javanese queen Gunapriya, his concubine, his illustrious eldest son Airlangga who ruled over East Java, and his youngest son Anak Wungsu. Reigning over Bali from AD 1050 to 1077, Anak Wungsu is believed to have given up his kingdom to become a religious hermit.

In the right of the main ensemble of temples is a cloister with five cells carved out of rock. The cloister inmates most likely were caretakers of the ‘candi’. There’s a second hermitage near the main cloister, consisting of niches around a central courtyard, which might have served as sleeping quarters for visiting pilgrims. To get into this part of the temple visitors must take of their shoes.

Should you have a spare time, a walk up north of the temple complex could be a short nice walking along the rice field and river stream. The path leads to a small waterfall after 800 meters away and about 1,5 kilometers to Mengening Temple.

Gunung Kawi Sebatu
This temple differs to Gunung Kawi Temple nor Tirta Empul Temple in Tampaksiring, even though they are not located very far away to each other. Gunung Kawi Sebatu Temple is located northwest of the other two temples in a village of Sebatu, 40 kilometres from Denpasar or only 20 minutes drive north of Ubud. Sebatu Village is also known for the creativity of the villagers in creating woodcarving and handicraft as seen in all the shop along the village

Mas
Well known for special quality of wood carving and other handicrafts. The football field and the big banyan tree within the village notes the center of Mas village. However, since it become a known tourist stop for fine wood carving, galleries and workshop building are stretched starting from intersection of Sakah, where a huge baby statue stand in the middle, until another intersection up north at Teges Village. Small lanes on the left or right side of the main road are the houses of the woodcarvers and mask makers. Visitors can enter any houses with sign at front gates to see the artist at work and get a better price than the galleries on the main road.

Peliatan
Many Bali’s most gamelan orchestra and dancing groups inhibit the village that located 2 kilometres east of Ubud town. The groups have performed in many Western countries. It is also the origin of one kind of Legong dance.

Petulu Village
A white heron village located in the north of Ubud. The best time to visit this natural bird sanctuary is around 5 to 6 PM when the sacred birds flew back home after a day of ill or fish hunting.

Sukawati
It is known for its art market that become ‘a must see’ place by tourists especially the local ones from Jakarta or other area in Java. Huge number of small stalls occupied the two stories building offer a lot of cheap souvenirs. Almost any kind of Bali’s souvenirs can be found in here either painting, woodcarving, clothes, temple umbrellas and other temple accessories, leather puppet, wind chime, jewelleries and others. It is better for you to prepare a list of souvenirs that you want to bring back home since you may be stuck in a confusion situation of too overwhelmed by the huge quantity of souvenirs and finally bring home nothing.

Two hundred metres toward west from the Sukawati Art Market, on the right side of the road, there is another market called ‘Pasar Seni Pagi’ of ‘The morning Art Market’ which only open very early in the morning until around 7 AM. The crowd of souvenirs retailers from other part of Bali will come here to get semi-finished product with a very low price.

Many of Bali’s most established puppeteers live in Sukawati. In line with this fact, Sukawati is also the center of Shadow puppets production center. The leather puppet, ‘wayang kulit’ are made either of cow or buffalo hide.

Bona Village
One time in 1980s Bona village is the most well known place to see the Kecak and Fire. Now, it is more known for its bamboo furniture and handicraft, together with the nearby Belega village.

Tegalalang
And endless handicraft stalls located about 20 kilometers along the main road of this district. The craftsmen are too creative as they can make almost any thing that tourist have in mind with various art materials.

Ubud’s Monkey Forest
Inhibited by up to 125 monkeys divided into 3 major groups. Comparing other sanctuaries in Bali, the mammals in here are tame. There are three local temples settle within the sacred sanctuary.

The Pejeng Area
The finding of many archeological sites within and beyond this area become one of the reason for the local government to built an archeological museum on the southern part of the village. Two most visited sites by tourist are Pura Penataran Sasih, the temple of a moon faced bronze drum, and Pura Kebo Edan, the temple of three meters high ancient stone statue.

Tirta Empul
Tampaksiring is the name of a small village 36 Km from Denpasar on the road to Kintamani. The temple Pura Tirta Empul, bequeathed to the people by ancient Rajadom, is perhaps the most fascinating spot in the area. On the west side of this temple, high on the hill, can be found a Presidential palace that was built during Sukarno’s time. The name “ Tirta Empul” derives from large spring in the centre of the temple “Tirta” means holy water and “Tirta Empul” is holy spring water. This water originates from the Pakerisan river to the East of the temple, that flows through the entire valleys past relies of ancient time. The temple was built around 960 AD, during the rule of Raja Candra Bhayasingha from the Warmadewa dynasty. Conforming with the structure of most Balinese temple, it is devided into three main court yard, the middle, and the inner sanctum.

Backing the outer courtyard can be found two rectangular pools, each fed by a line of 15 fountains. Stretching from East to West and to the south. Each fountain has its own name and function according to tradition. For example there is fountain for spiritual purification, another for cleansing from evils, another supposed to be an antidote for poison. The “Pancoran Cetik” or “Fountain for poison” is connected to the mytological battle between Mayadanawa raja Batu Anyar, of Bedahulu, and Bhatara Indra. In the ancient tale the Raja Mayadanawa was such a tyrant he forbade the people to carry out their religiond ceremonies the request the blessing of God. The gods heard about this tyranny, and led by Indra they attacked Mayadanawa. In the end lost the battle and ran away to hide in the forest to the north of the village of Tampaksiring. With his magic powers, created a spring of poison, which caused many deaths amongst Indra’s troops who drank from the spring. In fury Bhatara Indra drove his spear into the ground at the poin where the spring was bubbling up, rerouting it to come out through the centre of Tirta Empul. This holy water was used to splash upon the afflicted Gods and revive them from the grasps of death. This mythology is possible connected to the influence of the Majapahit Kingdom of East Java. The expedition of Patih (Minister) Gajah Mada and members of the Majapahit court to Bali in 1343 is symbolized as Bhatara Indra, and the Evil Raja Mayadanawa as Bhatara Sri Astasura Bhumi Bante. According to the belief of the Balinese people this myth is also connected to the Galungan holy dart that is celebrated every 6 moths (210 days) according to the Balinese calendar, on a day known as ‘Hari Rebo Keliwon Wuku Dungulan”.

Ubud
Attributed by its natural and cultural atmosphere, Ubud has attracted many foreigners to visit or even live in this artisan’s village since 1930’s. Many expatriates especially foreign or local artists fall in love and decide to settle in this international village. The achievement of Ubud as a tourist destination cannot be separated from the effort of those artists who display Ubud to the world through their work.

Its location in the central of Bali makes Ubud become a good base for visitors to visit other places all over Bali. Nusa Dua, Kintamani, Lovina, Amed or Jembrana can be reach by just doing a day tour without so much tiring of driving. Many beautiful landscapes, interesting historical sites and not to mentioned art villages can easily reach even by walking.

Ayung river that stretch on the west part of Ubud offer a fascinating view of river gorge is the spot of several most luxurious hotels on the island. Attracted by the beauty of river valley at least five rafting companies run their trip on this part of the Bali’s longest river. Other river hill that used as hotel nest are Campuhan river in the middle and Petanu on the eastern part. Most tourist accommodation are located in the center of Ubud. The center would be noted by former Ubud palace that is located across the art and traditional market of Ubud. The accommodation available suit to any budget and most of them will offer you a stay at charming cottages or a stay within a family house.

Instead of visiting it on the daily sightseeing tour, the best way to get the real atmosphere of Ubud is by spending couple of night within the area. Besides regularly dancing performance or permanent art exhibition on many fine art galleries, there are dozen of things can be explored. People preparing ceremonies, temple festivals, colourful celebration, dance, and traditional ‘gamelan’ rehearsals, occasional cremation are rarely unseen. It is not surprising anymore if you see foreigners in their complete Balinese dress involve in these local activities. There are some courses of Balinese dance and music, cooking classes, wood carving, mask making, batik painting or even learn the skill to be puppet masters are available for those who eager to have some of the local skills.