Keffiyah Scarfs: A simple trend or a political statement?

by ryan | July 19, 2007 at 11:58 am
20773 views | 45 Recommendations | 19 comments

Photos

Arab Dog

Arab Dog

see larger image

uploaded by mc_sween

'Euro Scarf', 'Peace Scarf', or 'Keffiyah' whatever you call it the fashion trend is prevalent not just for Arab men but amongst young western women.


I first learned of the fashion trend to wear keffiyahs, the traditional Arab head scarf, from a a friend of mine. I was living in Jerusalem at the time and they asked me to buy one for them in the Arab market. I didn't do it. I do not feel it is appropriate for western fashionistas to expropriate the garment.


The keffiyah is a cultural symbol and has become a trademark symbol for Palestinian nationalism. It has evolved from a protective shade into a cultural symbol. On the other hand - what's the big deal it's just a piece of  clothing which originated in the Middle East...?


This blogger is adamant that it's inappropriate and blasts western retailers for perpetuating the trend.

The Kaffiyeh is a cultural and religious object for Arabs and Muslims, so I have a pretty big problem with people wearing them and buying them from places like Urban Outfitters (see proof here) when the are described as “anti-war” scarfs. Mobius of Jewschool argues, and rightfully so in most cases, those most often pictured in Kaffiyeh are fighting wars…but that is besides the point.

It should be noted that Urban Outfitters stopped selling the item after much pressure. And the blogger refers to the keffiyah as a religious item - which, unlike the hijab, it is not.  

But my friend need not worry as the politically charged item can now be acquired at Delia's.

Mobius reported earlier this week that Delia’s - the young woman’s cool clothier - now is selling “Peace Scarves” in dark blue. Again he looks to the regular wearers of Kaffiyeh and to the title of the scarves at Delia’s.

So the point of this post is to ask what do people, whose people wear these garments traditionally, feel about this trend in the Western fashion Kaffiyeh and the co-oping of the cultural and religious symbol as an piece of consumerists activism. So, what do you feel?

Here's a link to a timeline of the keffiyah in western society. Here are some highlights: 

 

1983: Professional wrestler, The Iron Sheik, signs with WWF to personify every negative stereotype about the Middle East in case you didn't already have them. At autograph signing event in Detroit, reports surface of a five year-old brat named Will repeatedly yanking kaffiyeh off of Sheik's head.

April 2001: Sting performs in front of pyramids at Giza. Unable to decide which color keffiyah best matches his eyes.

September 2001: Hate crimes against U.S. Arabs increase. Peace activists intensify keffiyah-wearing in solidarity.

May 2002: Columbia University students wear keffiyahs to graduation ceremony in solidarity with Palestine.

April 2007: "Balenciaga Scarf" makes it on Style.com’s must-haves for Fall 2007.

David Beckham spotted wearing blue keffiyah in Madrid.

July 2007: Urban Outfitters' Keffiyah Kraze, Version 2: The Heart Woven Desert Scarf is "the Shemagh scarf with a girly touch." Available in bink and burble.

Teen clothing catalog, Alloy’s version: "The Riviera Scarf"

ASOS capitalizes on keffiyah in the style of Cameron Diaz with the "Rock Tassle Scarf in the style of Cameron Diaz"

ASOS capitalizes on keffiyahs in the style of Carl Barat and David Beckham with the "Libertines Check Scarf in the style of Carl Barat and David Beckham"

Teen Vogue proclaims Kirstin Dunst's brown number to be "Breezy, Global Chic." Right-wing blog visitors proclaim to now hate Kirstin Dunst.


What do you think?

 

recommend This comment thread is now closed
1
Bootsaint

This Christmas some friends of ours invited us to share the holiday with them at their home. They were serving a dinner with a Middle Eastern theme, but the dessert I had made (rum cheesecake) was decidedly non-Middle Eastern. The day before I had found a red and white shemagh while buying my wife's Christmas present. As the colours were seasonally appropriate, it was too good to pass up an opportunity to play along with the theme of the gathering, in dress if not culinary contribution.

So I bought it and looked up some videos on YouTube to show me how to tie the thing. A bit of practice and I got it down pretty well. It was a hit at the party, and my adoptive teenage niece was quite enamoured of it.

So now Christmas is over and I still have a shemagh. I'm quite fond of it. It is well made, and quite striking in pattern and colour. I appreciate and respect the ancient cultural aspects of its design. It is easy to don properly with a bit of practice and very comfortable. It also strikes me as extremely practical and versatile in a desert environment (which I've never been in), as it can be configured to cover everything but the eyes without limiting vision or hearing, and the wearer can uncover the face or even the whole head without unwrapping it and cover them again quickly and securely if need be. A unique and fascinating piece of headgear.

However, reading up on the various and often conflicting significances which some have attached to it is a bit disheartening. And I'm not ignorant of the reactions wearing such an accessory would garner here in the U.S., especially on a large Anglo-Scots-Irish warehouseman. Too many people have ceded ownership of vast tracts of their thinking to mass media, which means they will expect me to have an AK-47 under my car seat and blocks of C-4 strapped to my chest.

That infuriates me on behalf of my own country as much as it does on behalf of the Arab and Muslim communities. I am a committed Christian and a moderately conservative, pro-Second Amendment patriot. My beliefs and way of life do not constitute a mandate to vilify or threaten anyone else's, and I get riled when people who claim to share them with me do just that.

But people are what they are, and I'm just one person. I'm glad I bought my shemagh, and grateful for what I've learned as a result. But I don't know how often I'll wear it around people I don't know and trust like I do my own family. Perhaps I can give it to my niece. Teenage girls can get away with anything and still look cool.

Jordan Yerman
Jordan Yerman
flagged this story as Good Stuff

at 12:27 on July 19th, 2007

The cross had become a worldwide fashion item, from Madonna's eighties earrings to twenty-first century hipster t-shirts. Buddha also makes an appearance in the fashion world, though true Buddhists would bridle at Siddhartha Gautama's image getting used in such a "frivolous" manner. In the religio-cultural-fashonista timeline, it looks like it's the Palestinian headgear's time in the sun, so to speak, though I completely understand why many adherents would be upset.

On the flip side, I remember hearing that Orthodox Jews got their distinctive garb from everyday Russian fashion back in the day: they stuck with the brimmed black hats and long black coats after the trend passed, and were no doubt thrilled when The Matrix repopularized it.

Kaitlin
Kaitlin
flagged this story as Good Stuff

at 12:38 on July 19th, 2007

This comment is not nearly as clever as Jordan's, but nonetheless: Raising the issue of appropriation of cultural/religious symbols reminds me of my roommate and an interesting discussion we had recently. She was raised Catholic (I was raised "None of the Above") and we were discussing people using Rosaries as necklaces or bracelets, or tattooing them on their body (as Mark Wahlberg and Drew Barrymore have both done). She finds it shockingly insenstive when people represent the Rosary this way. I can definitely see where she's coming from.

Thanks for posting this, Ryan...very thought provoking. 

0
denseatoms

I wonder how much offense lies strictly in the mind of the potential offender. When I was driving to a mutual friend's wedding with a Mauritanian Muslim here in the USA, the Vietnamese pork spring rolls that I had made for the reception were putting out a heavy smell. I asked my companion whether the pork smell was offensive to him. He replied: "No, I'm not going to eat any."


A friend who was teaching in Saudi Arabia brought me back a keffiyah from Riyadh: the Saudis wear these scarfs, too, so it's not just Palestinian. I don't wear mine -- it's just a handsome keepsake (see the photo I've just uploaded).


Will Scotsmen soon be up in arms about people abusing the kilts?

denseatoms
denseatoms
flagged this story as Good Stuff

at 20:31 on July 19th, 2007

By the way, Ryan -- great, thought-invoking piece. Sometimes I forget to flag -- just as people overlook promised attachments in e-mails. Anyway, I'm still a newbie at all this.

Oh, by the way, that's [sic] on "invoking" above.

0
ryan

thanks for the great comment and the good stuff. I hope I didn't imply that only Palestinians wear keffiyahs, because, as you said, that's not the case - it's common practice amongst all the Arab world. What is unique about the Palestinian custom is the symbolism of the keffiyah. Yasser Arafat turned the keffiyah into a symbol of nationalism and politicized it, for better or worse.

0
ScienceDave

Great piece Ryan.  A friend of mine had acquired one 4-5 years ago after having spent a number of months in the middle east and the west bank.  He wore it in suport of their cause, and I was amazed when people would come up to him and say, "I love your scarf!  Where can I get one?!"  Ahhhh ignorance.

0
denseatoms

No, Ryan, you didn't imply that the scarfs were exclusively Palestinian at all.  I wrote my comment way too late to be completely articulate. My "dig" was at those who react kneejerkwise whenever they see a keffiyah and make a narrow conclusion. You are certainly not among that number. My own "telescoped" point was that to think Arafat whenever a keffiyah is worn is a broad leap of illogic. At 7:38 in the evening, I can state that more lucidly.

Eli Shams
Eli Shams
flagged this story as Good Stuff

at 02:03 on July 21st, 2007

Ryan Nadel, I like this story. It's good stuff because it reminds us how simple objects can be mindfull.

0
thomashood10

This debate is stupid.

 Anyone who is half informed knows there is no religious ties to this scarf. It's an arab male headdress.  END OF STORY.

Just because some palestinian comes along and says "Oh this is gonna represent yo." doesn't mean shite.

 

Saddam could've done something similar and said it was a symbol of his resistance to the US. At the end of the day, ITS JUST AN ARAB SCARF. With some ties to a mans rank in terms of the community and thats it.

 If some westerners want to wear the scarf and be ignorant about it. Fine. It makes as much sense as an arab wearing a baseball cap, and not knowing what baseball is. And frankly I'm not going to get pissed off at an arab who doesnt know who the NY Yankees are, but wear the cap. 'nuff said.

0
ryan

what you say is true...however the significance attributed to a symbol is what gives it meaning. so yes, intrinsically the keffiyah is not of religious or political significance but because of what it has come to signify changes the nature of it.

0
megan s

i've got to agree with thomashood10 and denseatoms on this one BIG TIME!

i studied abroad in egypt last semester and traveled to syria, jordan, morocco, israel (and the west bank), and turkey. kufayyas are not a symbol of war or religion! it's their version of a baseball hat or a business suit (these kufayyas and galabayyas were what they wore daily before the western world introduced western suits and clothing)! you'll see guys just peacefully walking down the street wearing them on their way to work or riding their camels/horses/jeeps in the hot desert sun, not on their way to a political activity. so just because the only time the media depicts arabs is in terms of terrorism, it doesn't mean that all arabs and their clothing has to do with militant groups, terrorism, or political termoil. i'm not an expert on this but i did my fair share of observation and asking questions and i can
promise you that it's not just a palestinian thing. the red and white one is, but there's a 
black and white one which is iraqi. then there's the yemenese one that is a really cool black
and white pattern (different from the iraqi one).  i happen to own one of each and wear
them now as part of the fashion trend which you correctly picked up on - i think it's
pretty sweet looking. but i wear mine also to show my respect for the arab world. so
while you may have a point that most people have no clue where the kuffayyas come from or that they're supposed to go on your head rather than neck, please don't go making
everything arab out to be so controversial (it's a bit racist). the kufayya is just fashion's inevitable reinvention of a classic. they ran out of decades to re-do so they're picking up on other countries. leave it at that.

0
josy

Why would u or wouldn't u wear the kuffiyah?

0
Hani

I don't think you should take westerners wearing the keffiyah that seriously at all. When the trend came out, about 80% of people wearing it probably had no idea there was anything behind it other than maybe having seen them worn on the heads of arabs in papers or something. 

If you live in America, you have to get with it. West adopts trends from all over the world. I have a bright yellow keffiyah-type scarf and don't wear it to symbolize anything about the middle east. I wear it because it is really pretty. Sorry if that offends you ::OMG:: 

The general public is wearing the scarves because they LIKE them. It makes me think about Rachel Ray and dunking donuts and how the far right conservative people like Michelle Malkin and Anne Coulter made it this big story that Rachel Ray was wearing that scarf to support Palestine and terrorism and that means dunkin donuts must be run by terrorist and blah blah blah... soon all those crazy conservative people were protesting DD! I think Rachel Ray decided "This scarf is really nice", like the rest of us. People found the need to turn that campaign into something it wasn't... I found the whole thing absolutely ridiculous!!!

I wonder if it's anything along the lines of sporting a green cap with a red star (communist) or a giant swastika on your sweater? 

For arabs to get offended because the west is stealing a cultural symbol would be like Japanese telling the rest of the world to STOP WEARING HELLO KITTY! 

If all arabs were as deeply intolerant about the trend spreading as you are than A. Why do I see hipster arabs adopting the trend of the keffiyah's with their western clothing? And 2. There would be more riots and deaths if the sight of my yellow keffiyah sparked the need for war with some deeply offended fundamentalist anti-fashion arab. 

On the bright side most arab/middle eastern I know are cool with the trend (they are A. Hipsters) and my friend is going to get me one when he comes back from vacation in Dubai ♥

0
Chilly Willy

Please cite your reference for the claim that hate crimes against Arab Americans increased in 2001.

"Big lie" arguments by assertion minimize any point being made.

I am an American of Syrian extraction.

0
Amber at Activism_Works

I am a Pro-Palestine activist and a 29-year-old white Western female. I purchased a keffiyah to show my solidarity with the people of Palestine. I waited to buy one until I found a retailer that I felt good supporting. The Arab American Museum in Michigan sells them through their gift shop and was happy to ship one to me in Minnesota. I wear my keffiyah with pride and see it as an opportunity for me to educate others when asked about my "scarf".

0
Adam Fiedler

According to every arab nationalist and u.s. military  i've ever met (and i've met quite a few) it's a protective pice of outer wear. no more, no less.

0
tim usa

to me those keffiyahs look all red, blood of all the victims who died due to terrorist attacks: 9/11, suicidebombings in israel, kenya US embassy, beslan, ... terrorists wear them to show they are terrorists, if an arab wears this too, it's a traditional symbol if caucasion people wear it I see no other excuse but these 2: they're stupid and just wear it as a fashion statement or they support the terrorism of hamas, hezbollah, al qaida, taliban,... they support the oppression of women, killing innocents for their religion, ...

0
Resa

Ugh, this whole outrage is getting on my nerves.
Should the Western USA tell the rest of the world to stop wearing jeans? The scarf is religious if you want it to be, protective from the sun if you wish, or a beautiful way to dress yourself if that is your desire. It seems to me this is more of a cultural dress, the way that denim pants are. Western clothing has migrated Eastward, it is only reasonable that Eastern clothing migrate West.

This story was created over 3 months ago, the comment thread is now closed.

What is NowPublic?

NowPublic lets people work together to cover news events around the world.

Find out more

Crowd Power

Jordan Yerman
First Flagged at 12:27 PM, Jul 19, 2007 by Jordan Yerman
These members have powered this story:

Most Recommended Stories in Culture

Recommendations (45)

Most recently recommended by:
 

closeSign in to NowPublic

is reporting from