Music to sell wine by'

Noted at Sign and Sight, an essay by Reto U. Schneider, who is editor of the Neuen Zürcher Zeitung's weekly Folio:

"They push their wagons along the course and come to the wine shelves. Don't you want to bring a bottle to your friends? Vivaldi's 'Four seasons' whispers in your ears. You reach for a bottle of Tignanello for 50 francs. If the supermarket had been playing Madonna, you would have gone for a cheaper gift. At least that was the result of an experiment conducted by an American wine dealer. When accompanied by light classics, customers bought bottles that were three times more expensive than what they bought to pop music. Thank goodness that no Bavarian brass bands were blasting from the loud speakers – otherwise the friends would have gotten a bottle of 'Kröver Nacktarsch' (Kröver Barebum)".

(Two links, because the one on the Sight and Sign page is to the wrong article, about the New York personality Reverend Billy and his 'Church of Stop Shopping', which is also in the 6 November issue of Folio; most of the content is concerned with shopping and what it 'means'.)