Humar successfully climbs Annapurna

Tomaž Humar, known mainly for his controversial projects in the Himalayas, has returned from his latest exploit: successfully climbing Annapurna.

Tomaž Humar is known as man of integrity, who is either incredibly lucky or has connections in high places. After climbing the southern rock wall of Daulagiri in 1999, he has become known almost all over the world. He claims he does not climb for fame or awards, although he has been awarded several times. He climbs, he says, because the only time he can breathe easily is at an altitude of 5,000 meters.

His heart, his mind and his feet are pulling him up, towards the mountains. He has already done 1200 ascents, 60 of those by climbing in directions that have never been thought possible before.

The mountain that captured a part of his soul

Humar always claimed that the Himalayas suit him in many ways, so he never gets tired or discouraged from challenging the mountains over and over. In 2005, he decided that he would have a second attempt in ascending Nanga Parbat, which is one of the world’s highest peaks, at 8,125 meters above sea level. It is also known as the mountain that is extremely hard to conquer and which has already taken lives of many experienced alpinists.

Humar and his escort crew left for the Himalayas in July 2005. What seemed to be just another adventure turned into a real life drama. Ascending the mountain, Humar was caught by an avalanche, trapping him on a small ledge for 10 days. With much luck and the help of the Pakistani military pilots he was rescued. As he later stated, the mountain took a part of his soul that could never be regained.

Public opinion

The unsuccessful mission to Nanga Parbat caused quite a stir in Slovenia. There was much discussion and debate between his supporters and those who thought he was just a careless poseur. Some claimed that his mission had some positive effects. For instance, the mission is said to have stimulated international cooperation and promoted the sport. Critics’ main focus was on the high costs of the rescue mission for something they viewed as self promoting act or merely a way of satisfying his lust for fame and adventure.

Ascending Annapurna

More than a year after his failure in attempting to ascend Nanga Parbat, his latest mission to the Himalayas went by with no or very little media attention. There is not a single line on his webpage mentioning his plans to conquer Annapurna. The media have frequently been favourable to Humar, but there have also been many critiques saying that he has been using the media to commercialize his achievements. That is probably why he decided to keep a low profile this time.

The mission was organized by the Asian Trekking organization, which called it the “Humar Solo Annapurna 1 Expedition 2007”. Humar’s goal was to climb the southern rock wall of Annapurna by himself. This rock wall has been conquered quite a few times before, but no one has ever attempted to climb this line alone. The last man to attempt this bold venture was the Swiss, Ueli Steck, who unfortunately had to give up his mission after an accident.

On 28th October, it was reported that Tomaž Humar succeeded in his attempt to conquer Annapurna, climbing the southern rock wall alone. The news was delivered to the public by Ang Tshering Sherpa, the manager of Humar’s agency Asian Trekking in Nepal, who received a call from Humar, after he reached the top of the 8091-meter peak of the Himalayan mountain.

Humar had to wait for a month for the right weather conditions that would allow him to attempt reaching the top of Annapurna. Humar’s successful ascent proved yet again that he is still in the top of the mountaineering world.

Opinion divided again

Humar’s newest success received quite a lot of attention from the media worldwide. Only after viewing the news from abroad, did the Slovenian media published the story themselves. When the news on Humar’s latest accomplishment finally broke, it did not cause any kind of major response from the public, at least in comparison to his previous climbs. Either the public is indifferent or simply few people knew about it. Perhaps this is just how Humar wants to be – out of the spotlight and fame.

According to on-line forums, people mostly find it difficult to grasp, what makes a man, a family man, who has risked his life so many times, keep going back to the mountains, attempting new and daring ascents to the world’s highest and most dangerous peaks. Either he really is only seeking fame, or he puts his heart and soul into what he loves most - climbing.