Alsace, France; The Land of Castles and Half-Timbered Houses

Photos

Riquewihr

see larger image

uploaded by Cappuccinonz

• 

  uploaded by Cappuccinonz | add comment

• 

  uploaded by herby_fr | add comment

• 

  uploaded by janebelindasmith | add comment

• 

  uploaded by ctruongngoc | add comment

• 

  uploaded by ctruongngoc | add comment

• 

  uploaded by altermativ | add comment

• 

  uploaded by ctruongngoc | add comment

• 

  uploaded by ctruongngoc | add comment

• 

  uploaded by ctruongngoc | add comment

• 

  uploaded by TerrMys | add comment

It almost seems like a computer special effects studio created the make-believe villages for a movie. Narrow cobbled stone streets with neatly situated half-timbered houses form little villages in the middle of peaceful vineyards. Flower boxes filled with weeping red geraniums and flowers gardens disperse color everywhere. An annual competition for flower beautification in Alsatian towns takes place with a town being named the “Village Fleurie”. Giant weed nests settle snugly on chimneys and roofs with large white long necked storks perched atop. The white stork is protected here and takes up residency along with the rest of the population. Life seems simple as if to say don’t bother us with the trivial. Surly this can’t be real, it must be in the animator’s imagination – but it is real and this is the Alsace France. 

Driving through this region you are drawn to the splendor of castles, vineyards and villages. Small streams are lined with weeping willow trees with drooping branches touching the water making little ripples as ducks float in and out of the circles.

We visit this region often for weekend getaways and enjoy our stay at the Chateau D'Isenbourg, a 12th Century Chateau hotel in Rouffach and an evening concert with a lovely Alsatian after concert dinner. We look forward to our lunch the next day at the Auberge de l’Ill in Illheasuern. As we sit at the L’Augerge de l’Ill enjoying our foie gras, suddenly two divers appear out of the river Ill that flows along-side the restaurant. The divers crawl up onto the riverbank and sit dripping at one of the outdoor tables and order a glass of wine. They drink their wine and disappear back down into the river.

The Alsace’s has Europe's highest concentration of feudal castles. Haut Koenigsbourg and the Hohlandsbourg are the most visited. Strasbourg is a UNESCO World Heritage site and Mulhouse is a town with an industrial past with many technical museums. The Museum of Printed Textiles is where many designers go to research and get inspiration for fabrics, wallpaper, china etc.

The town of Colmar is considered “Little Venice” where half-timbered houses built over a century ago crowd each other along winding streets and canals and is one of the loveliest towns in the region. This is where I go when I can’t be home for Christmas.  Here Christmas is truly like being in a fantasy village with lights strung along the streets adding a glow as snow lightly falls and sparkles. The Christmas tree was first documented in the 17th century in Colmar and Christmas markets go on day and night. Sitting in a little restaurant with dark wood beam ceilings and a fire slowly burning in a tile fireplace with people laughing and enjoying each other’s company just seems like the right place to be on a cold winter evening. In the summer the town is covered with flowers - the backdrop for small shops and outdoor markets.

Beyond the mediaeval towns are several villages also known as the ”Alsatian Wine Route”; Riquewihr, Obernai, Kaysersberg, La Petite-Pierre, Neuf-Brisach (is now listed as a World Heritage Site), Eguisheim, Hunspach and Wissembourg have preserved their historical heritage. The examples of Alsatian architecture, with views of the Vosges foothills and vineyards that surround the villages are lovely. The region boarders Switzerland and Germany and the influence in the cuisine and language are noticeable, here they speak both French and German.

Alsace is one of France's leading gastronomy regions with some 30 star-rated restaurants. Winstubs and beer gardens can be found where you can enjoy a beer or glass of wine with some Alsatian specialties such as Flammekuche (bread topped with cream, onions and bacon cooked over an open fire) or Choucroute (sauerkraut & meats), Baeckeoffe (vegetable and meat stew), Coq au Riesling (chicken stewed in Riesling)­ or river fish and wild game. The foie gras of the Alsace is a specialty and served with one of the many white wines of the region. The soft texture and delicate flavor of the foie gras with toasted bread tips is heavenly. The king of vegetables, white asparagus season begins in mid-April and ends in mid-June. Typically they are served with hollandaise sauce and slices of ham. Some establishments open serving the white asparagus only during this period and close when it is over. The most typical cheese of Alsace is Munster cheese. The region is mostly know for its white wines; Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. The only red wine made is Pinot Noir.

The most famous dessert is the Kougelhoff, the yeast cakes baked in a crown shaped mold are irrespirable. Other desserts to satisfy your sweet tooth are; bretzels, brioches, Bredele (Christmas biscuits), gingerbread, Springerle (anise-flavored cookies), Bierwecke, stuffed with dried fruits, strudel and fruit tarts.

If you don’t have the time to visit the entire region, not to worry because you will want to go back again - it isn’t possible to visit the Alsace only once.

Flammekueche (recipe from www.bonjourlafrance.net/french-food/french-recipes/french-dishes/tarte_flambee_flammekueche.htm 

Starter for the dough

1/4 cup flour

1/4 cup moderately hot water, about 110º

1 tablespoon sugar

1 package yeast

Dough

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup beer

6 tablespoons (1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons) milk

Filling

2      tablespoons oil

1 medium onion (3 ounces), finely chopped

1 cup crème fraîche, commercial or homemade (see note)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

4 pinches nutmeg

3      ounces bacon, cut into matchsticks

Mix the starter ingredients together in a small bowl, cover tightly, and set aside in a warm place for 30 minutes.

When the starter is light and bubbly, mix the beer and milk into the mixture.

Put the flour and salt into a food processor, then, with the motor running, add the yeast mixture through the feeding tube. Process the dough until it forms a ball. Add very small amounts of additional flour or milk if necessary.

Process the ball until it is smooth, elastic, and warm, about 45 seconds to 1 minute.

Butter a medium-sized bowl, roll the ball around in the butter, then cover and let rise in a warm place until doubled. Punch down and let rise a second time.

While the dough is rising, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a nonstick skillet. Add the onion and cook, stirring, over low heat for 5 minutes or until golden brown. Let cool.

Combine the crème fraîche, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Add the cooled onion.

Heat the remaining oil in the skillet and fry the bacon until lightly browned, stirring constantly. Remove and drain through a strainer.

Heat the oven to 450 degrees.

Oil a 14 x 16 inch baking sheet. Roll the dough until slightly smaller than the baking sheet. Place it on the sheet.

Spread the onion mixture over the dough, leaving a very small raised rim all the way around, then dot with the bacon.

Bake for 20 minutes, or until the tart is lightly browned.

NOTE: To make crème fraîche, combine 1 cup heavy cream with 2 tablespoons buttermilk, stir, cover with plastic wrap, and leave at room temperature for 12 to 24 hours, or until it has become very thick. Refrigerate, and it will become even thicker.

Serve very hot on a flat wooden board so it can easily be cut up.