Milan Fashion Week - The Best Picks for Spring 2009 - Part One
It's finally here! Milan Fashion Week. The Italians certainly know what's what when it comes to fashion. I think they could teach everyone a thing or two...
Here are a few lessons:
Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi have some rather big shoes to fill at Gianfranco Ferre - and if you ask me, the shoes fit like they were Cinderella. They showed an extremely structured collection. The designs were sophisticated and utilitarian, but some looked stiff and robot like. I felt that some pieces needed riding crops as accessories - for those dominatrix types. But despite this, there were some very sexy cocktail dresses - the details were beautiful. Ferre would be smiling from the grave.
I think Christopher Bailey looked into my Granny's wardrobe (circa 1930/40) when he was designing his Spring 09 RTW collection for Burberry Prorsum. His collection was romantic and subdued. Very British countryside - I half expected to see dirt under the nails of the models as they walked down the runway. Trench coats covered waistless dresses and drooping cardigans topped skinny trousers, and all were decorated with big, chunky statement necklaces. There will be loads of rich, organic farmhouse wives up from the city buying Burberry next season.
Giorgio Armani's collection spanned the ages. He showed looks that are appropriate for my mother's age group and for my age group. Each piece was very soft and romantic, elegant and classic. He really does design timeless garments. It was also refreshing to see some older models gliding down the runway.
The Prada lady next season looks like she spent the better part of the morning (and perhaps afternoon) in bed with her lover. Very sexy, rumpled suits and dresses dominated the slippery runway - each looking as though they could fall off with just the pull of a string. Miuccia definitely did away with that terrible granny (not good Granny like Burberry) lace from Fall 2008 - she made up for it 10 fold with the collection shown on Tuesday. If only she had planned out her runway and foreseen how those towering heels would react... models were slipping and sliding and toppling over.
Bottega Veneta showed a very subdued collection - quite romantic actually. Colours were muted and, as in previous shows this season, there was a 1940's vibe with plenty of belted dresses to the knee. Dresses you can wear to meet your boyfriend's parents. The only downer in the show were the awful leather pieces at the beginning. They were too stiff and looked like sacks.
The iconic prints of Missoni can be recognized a mile away. This season was jammed packed with gorgeous prints - both the recognizable zigzag pattern and a variety of others. The show had a very mellow 70's vibe (not of the Studio 54 variety). There were flowing caftans, wide-legged pants and wide sashes. It was a beautiful, beautiful show. I would definitely take the time to check out the whole collection.
Nautical. Parisian. Can-Can. 70's. D&G. This show was done in true D&G fashion. It was over the top and sparkly. It was cute and kitschy. Not many out there can pull off D&G well - I can think of just one... Carrie Bradshaw.
I saw lollipops at Moschino - colours were so vibrant and bright. There were gorgeous and sassy satin frocks, black and white, oversized bows and 60's bouffants. The girls reminded me of Iona in Pretty in Pink - perhaps it was the sunglasses. It was a fun and high energy show with loads of retail level pieces. True Moschino...
Day to Night
Blugirl's collection was a transition from prim and proper Upper East Side girl to sassy nightclub minx. The show started with frilled and lacy blouses, buttoned to the neck; moved on to colourful satin frocks paired with contrasting ribbons tied round the waists; and ended with black cocktail dresses fit for any party. All in all, a collection that will do very well at the retail level.
Stayed tuned for Milan Fashion Week Part Two...
Photos courtesy of WWD and Style.com
For reviews on fashion weeks in London and New York click on the below:
London Fashion Week - Part Two
London Fashion Week - Part One
New York Fashion Week - Part Two
New York Fashion Week - Part One