Rockport: An artist colony and New England’s most visited town

Photos

Rockport:An artist colony,one of New England’s most visited towns | Photo 04

see larger image

uploaded by Patricia Turo

• 

  uploaded by Patricia Turo | add comment

• 

  uploaded by Patricia Turo | add comment

• 

  uploaded by Patricia Turo | add comment

• 

  uploaded by rockgirl2670 | add comment

• 

  uploaded by Patricia Turo | add comment

• 

  uploaded by Patricia Turo | add comment

• 

  uploaded by Patricia Turo | add comment

• 

  uploaded by Patricia Turo | add comment

• 

  uploaded by Patricia Turo | add comment

• 

  uploaded by Patricia Turo | add comment

Along the New England coast is the little village of Rockport Massachusetts. About 1 hour from Boston, Rockport sits at the tip of Cape Ann. Gloucester, Essex, Manchester and Rockport make-up the four towns of Cape Ann in Essex County. Years ago the people of this little village went about life fishing and loberstering; a hard life in a volatile weather environment along a rocky coast. A cluster of typical cedar shingled whether beaten cottages with blue shutters and trim and little flower gardens filled with blue hydrangea- Rockport was just a small town where you could watch fishing boats pull up on Bradley Wharf with their catch of the day.  A few small restaurants served local fish, small candy shops pulling saltwater taffy of all colors and flavors, and lobster shacks where big pots of steaming lobsters added to the atmosphere. Add in the little galleries and craft shops and you have a picture of Rockport.

Like most little places that artists just seem to seek out, Rockport lends itself to a quite peaceful life where artists could blend into the community and shape it into the creative lifestyle that draws them to places like this. Slowly they began moving into the small village opening little ateliers and creating paintings of this rocky shoreline with vast views of the Atlantic Ocean.  It was a simple life style and a gathering of a group who melded in comfortably with the fishing families of this small community.  The dramatic contrasts created by the harsh weather gave this group the exact kind of environment that they thieve in.  How is it that artists seem to see the value in places like this before the rest of us?  For many years the little village slowly grew as creative people heard of it and joined other artist.  As people began to visit and discover this little world filled with the sent of oil paints and salt water; summer visitors and summer residents began to swell the population during the summer months. Since it is only about 40 miles from Boston, the town is easy to reach and the ride along the coast of New England is just beautiful.

It had been years since I last visited Rockport, but last Fall I decided to take the trip we took as part of our summer travel ritual. I was amazed how much the town had grown.  The artists are still there and it was really wonderful to see that new businesses had popped up. The taffy shops are still there, but now young people are creating handmade chocolates and caramel candy where people wait in line to taste their creations.  Ice cream shops and cafés and little pastry shops have added to the atmosphere. A few more restaurants serve boiled lobsters, fish and chips, fried clams and typical New England clam chowder with views over the rocky shoreline and the little boats that fill the famous harbor. Rockport is a dry town so don’t expect a glass of wine with dinner. 

I visited an artist friend who’s small gallery overlooks the ocean and who told me that life in the off-season is still hard as this is a community that lives on summer tourist business.  He was one of the original artists who moved to Rockport and has a gallery on Bearskin Neck where many of the shops and galleries can be found. I’m happy to say that not all of them have move out as happens when artist communities are discovered.

Being a New Englander I prefer preparing lobster at home. We had our own lobster traps and I enjoy getting messy eating lobster with hot drawn butter. The lobsters found along the New England coast filled with salty juicy sea water dripping as you crack the hard shell and pull out the soft white meat are best enjoyed not worrying about how messy you get. Lobster shacks with huge pots of steaming lobsters where you can buy one of any size can be found along the roadside. If you are willing to really get into it and get messy no one will notice, you have to forget about eating manners to enjoy lobster. 

There are many Bed & Breakfast, hotels and summer homes for rent if you wish to spend a little extra time discovering New England.

Buying and cooking lobster

If you decide to cook lobster at home, follow these suggestions: Choose a fish market that specializes in lobsters  – they should be moving and active and in tanks with pumps keeping the water aerated and flowing, don’t buy them if they are limp. The tail should snap back when straightened, and the shell should be hard.

They can be stored live for up to one day in a box or pan set in the refrigerator, covered by a damp cloth, seaweed or layers of damp newspaper. The most common size is about 1 1/2 pounds. Live lobsters are usually boiled or steamed whole. They can also be grilled and served with drawn butter.

1 1/2 lb. – 2lbs. are steamed for about 8 minutes, add a tablespoon of salt per quart of water. Bring the water to a boil and drop them in a steamer basket a few inches above the water.  Cover and steam them.  It may take a few minutes less as steam is hotter then boiled water so watch them closely.  They will turn bright red.

If boiling put in about 2” of water and bring it to a boil, drop the lobsters in and cover tightly.  Cook for 8-10 minutes for a 1 1/2 lb-2lb lobster.  If you have a little seaweed, add that in to add flavor.

You can buy nutcrackers with little skewers especially made to pick out the lobster from the cracked shells.

Some chefs say that putting them in the freezer for a few minutes lulls them to sleep. I usually put them in the refrigerator and keep them cold before boiling them.