A Visit to the Past in My Own City

FOOTLOOSE: A Visit To The Past

 The hustle and bustle and old world charm of Eidgah exemplify the spirit of Karachi, re-discovers R. Husain

The old central business district of Karachi, M.A. Jinnah Road, is still popularly known by its old name ––- ‘Bunder Road’ ––- though it was changed nearly fifty years ago. This area has an ambience all its own, with distinct characteristics representing the exuberance and energetic spirit of Karachi. In a dyspeptic frame, one is likely to feel repulsed by the noisy hustle and bustle and the pollution, but for those who are in a better mood and attracted to the old-world charm hidden inside the vibrant, crowded bazaars and forgotten mansions; it is a treat to be walking around here.

I was at the Eidgah Maidan area of M.A. Jinnah Road to order a replacement of chiks (reed blinds) for my house. This area, only a few years ago, had scores of shops that sold ready-made and made-to-order blinds, but now only some of them make use of the natural sirkanda which is imported from Kasur, Punjab. Most of the original shops have begun dealing in plastic merchandise. There are now shops selling plastic durries, mats and table covers. The chik-makers, too, use plastic pulleys instead of the handmade wooden pulleys that were traditionally a part of every chik.

Walking up and down the area, I came across small mosques and dargahs in the narrow lanes. Directly opposite the shops selling flowers and chaadars as an offering for the saints, amid the rose fragrance, are shops selling an eclectic range of forged and cast iron-ware. However, I was pleased to note that the atar shops are still there along the main road. The atar-walas continue to manufacture incense and distil atar for festivals such as Eid as this indigenous perfume is vastly popular even today, with different communities using unique concoctions. Some of the Eidgah atar shops also sell creams, lotions, masks, ubtan and henna…all the ingredients for a fair and lovely bride-to-be.

Viewing the road-crossing at Eidgah from the relative safety of the footpath, I observe the traffic madness ––- the speeding buses, the zig-zagging motorbikes and scooters, the bravado of pedestrians, the boldness of hand-drawn cart-walas such as the bihishtees, the impudence of taxi-drivers and private car owners, as well as the racket caused by the rickshaws. Nevertheless, oblivious of what goes on around them, women –– most of them burqa-clad housewives -–– flock to the shops selling footwear, vinyl floor coverings, plastic mats, iron utensils and rolling pins. They are also out to buy fabrics and other bric-a-brac at the Jama Cloth Market close by, or to fulfill a mannat at one of the dargahs. Whatever it is, if you do not already belong to the old city, a visit to Eidgah will certainly transport you into another era.